Jamai Sasthi

Bengali Sarees

Tant, dhakai, tangail, jamdani, muslin, baluchari, kantha, garad, korial, khadi sarees are traditional Indian sarees simple and yet attractive that can be worn in the traditional or fashionable way made by the weavers from all over West Bengal and usually used by Bengali women. The Bengali women generally wear the Shari and the salwar kameez, often explicitly created according to the customs of the local cultures.

In urban areas, many people, women wear Western style clothes. The city of Phulia, located in the district of Nadia, in the state of West Bengal, in India, it retains its unique identity through the ancient art of processing sari or saree in each lane of this town inhabited by over 50,000 people, they feel the vibrations resonate looms employing local craftsmen, where 80 percent of the population is involved in the textile industry.

The realization of the sari, the traditional women's clothing the use of which has been passed down for centuries in the Indian subcontinent, at least this date in 1409 and became very important during the reign of Rudra Roy (1683-1694), king of Nadia, in West Bengal, where there are now over 125,000 handlooms, through which, working cotton, silk and tussar silk saris are made ​​in different styles and handcrafted workmanship.

Even today, companies active in the textile industry are the backbone of the local economy, although in recent years the production of sari has entered into crisis, because most of the weavers were forced to renounce to craft for economic reasons. The average gain on the disposal of the family of a weaver, ranging from 15000 to 20000 rupees per month, a salary too low to even ensure survival. Most of the weavers working for Mahajan, traders who act as intermediaries between the weavers and the customers provide their yarns and fabrics embroidered saris and retire at a fixed price, equal to 500 rupees per piece. The weavers who leave the profession end up working primarily in the fields.

Saris Jamdani cotton fabrics are light and airy, in their plot is stuck to the wire make some kind of embroidery. The past is not finished with the needle in the fabric, as in the normal embroidery, but was added during weaving; the tails of the wire so they remain stuck flying but resist very well to the washing machine, try it. embroidery designs are also processed but more often simple and geometric. Jamdani The tissues are in different manufacturing specifications.

A type of Jamdani widespread is the Tangail or Tengail, economical and characterized by a processing with a decorative wires alternating in weaving. The Dhakai is a type of Jamdani particularly valuable, which is distinguished by a more complex way of managing the wires that enrich weft and warp of the base.

The sari Tant are distinguished from Jamdani for the fact of having the fantasies wholly performed with the wires of weaving, that is, without addition of other wires to embroidery. The body of the sari is usually cotton lightweight while edges and pallu are heavier for the decorative machining, which can also be in zari metal wire.

Baluchari saris are woven in West Bengal Kolkata region using a handmade silk, full-bodied and shiny, vaguely similar to shantung, but much softer. There are also Baluchari sari cotton fabric in a light and fluffy. Typical of these saris are woven figurative decorations directly to the frame, borders and pallu. The decorations in the pallu are structured in series that are repeated in bands, sometimes with the most common subjects are mythological scenes Ramayana & Mahabharata, double marches and court scenes. Some pieces have geometric themes and non-figurative. The body of the sari is solid, with the possible presence of buttis little decorations woven embroidered scattered on a regular basis, sometimes very detailed, recalling the main decorative theme.

The pieces are very elegant decorations woven in gold or silver, and any additional colors such as red, blue and green usually on a dark base. It is a fabric made ​​of silk or cotton, about six meters long and carries wrapped around the hips and draped over the left shoulder. Is worn by stopping one end to the petticoat, it forms a bunch of folds and then is draped around the body by passing it on the back to cover your breasts and then fell from his left shoulder. The final part of the said pallu, is the most richly decorated and is sometimes passed over his head.

Another element essential to properly wear one shari is the choli, the close-fitting blouse covering her breast exposing life, sometimes with large low-cut back, but always strictly tailor-made as if it were a second skin. The choli is often a blouse, short bodice that stops just below the sternum. The sari has no seams whatsoever and does not require buttons, laces, rubber bands, buckles, belts of any kind because you are wearing the fabric by folding in on itself like an origami. The styles of drapery can be different.

Another important accessory to buy with the sari is a cotton petticoat, always in shade, with drawstring closure at the waist. It is in this that fit and fasten the folds of her sari, just below the navel. The color or print a sari is carefully chosen depending on marital status and age of the lady. For brides red is the favorite color. Solid colors and earth tones are best suited to ladies in age. The first sari is given to girls at puberty, with a festive ceremony involving family and friends.

The saris of Bengal, the baluchari, d├ęcor recall the epic, especially from the Ramayana, just on the edge and on the pallu, making them similar to the tapestries. The sari is also a wonderful fabric that is thousands of applications in the decor. When you wear the sari also need to do a lot of accessories and details. You need to choose the different nuances of color that to that of the sari: Bangles Churi said, the necklaces and earrings, wearing sandals on your feet, the handbag, the anklets and other decorations such as the beautiful bindi.

The account are in great kept the earrings, the gem on the nostril, the rings were attached also to the toes, and, very important, anklets, which are strictly twins and bring quite large, so that the pendants or chains that adorn almost falling on the neck of the foot. Then, another important element is the catch. The makeup can also be very elaborate, decorated with henna designs on hands and feet, but at least include the well-known kajal and very often the third eye drawn or pasted on the forehead, blue, red, yellow or black. The third eye is called bindi, in fact. As a final touch on the hair, blacks, long, straight and variously collected, leans a necklace of jasmine flowers.


  1. Such fancy, beautiful golden jewelry! And fresh flowers in her hair, too!


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